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ALL SURFERS MUST KNOW HOW TO SWIM
Knowing how to swim is the best defense against
drowning. Swimming instruction at an early age is a crucial step to
protecting the surfer from injury or death. |
SURF ON A LIFEGUARDED BEACH WHENEVER POSSIBLE
Some areas have a lifeguard “monument”
adjacent to the lifeguard tower which provide information on: wave
heights, tide, water condition, water temperature, sea pests (sea
lice, sharks, man o wars, jellyfish), the name of the lifeguard that’s
on duty. If you surf too far away from the lifeguard tower it will
take him that much longer to get to you if you get into trouble. You
want that lifeguard in his best condition when he reaches you not
overly exhausted from running or swimming a hundred yards to get to
you. On the East Coast, lifeguard towers post several different colored
flags for water safety conditions: red-dangerous, yellow-caution,
green-normal, purple-sea pest If uncertain stop at lifeguard tower
and inquire what the water conditions are, if any sea pests, tell
him your level of surfing, and ask where would be the best spot for
you to “line up” Lifeguards have first aid gear and AED
equipment. They are trained and maintain certifications in Professional
Rescuer CPR/AED and First Aid and ocean rescue. They also have the
equipment to immediately activate local emergency medical services
(EMS). |
RIP TIDES OR "RIPS"
The second most life threatening condition to
surfers and swimmers is called RIP currents aka RIP tides although
a misnomer as it is not a tide.
Most waves are formed by wind on the water. Sea waves usually result
from storms, often hundreds of miles from shore. Waves are not all
equal in size. Sometimes a group of larger waves comes ashore one
after another. This is known as a "set" of waves.
When waves break, water is pushed up the slope of the shore. Gravity
pulls this water back toward the sea. If it converges in a narrow,
river-like current moving away from shore, it forms what is known
as a rip current.
Rip currents can be 50 feet to 50 yards or more wide. They can flow
to a point just past the breaking surf (the surfline) or hundreds
of yards offshore. Some 80% of rescues by lifeguards at America's
surf beaches are due to persons being caught in rip currents.
Rip currents may pull continuously, but they can suddenly appear or
intensify after a set of waves, or when there is a breach in an offshore
sandbar. Side currents, inshore holes, and other bottom conditions
contribute to the formation of rip currents. |
RIP
CURRENT SURVIVAL
If caught in a rip current, try to relax. A rip current is not an
"undertow" -- it will not pull you under. Do not try to
swim against the current as this is very difficult, even for an
experienced swimmer. If you can do so, tread water and float. Call
or wave for assistance. Swim parallel to shore until you feel the
current relax, then swim to shore. Most rip currents are narrow
and a short swim parallel to shore will bring you to safety. You
can also try to swim parallel to shore until you are out of the
current, then swim directly toward shore. Although hopefully you
already know that a rip is a strong current that (normally) goes
straight out to sea and if caught in one that you should not panic
and paddle across the rip (not against it) until you have escaped. |
DON'T DIVE HEADFIRST / PROTECT YOUR NECK
Serious, lifelong injuries, including paraplegia,
occur every year due to diving headfirst into unknown water and striking
the bottom. When falling off a surfboard fall flat always extending
a hand ahead of you. Surfing can result in a serious neck injury when
the swimmer's neck strikes the bottom. Check for depth and obstructions
before diving, then go in feet first the first time; and use caution
while surfing, |
PROTECT YOUR HEAD After
falling off your board or “wiping out” always know where
your surfboard is. As you come back to the surface after falling off
your board use your hands and arms to protect your head by covering
your head or extending your arms until you locate where the board
is. Many a surfer has received head injuries from the board striking
them on their head as a result of not protecting themselves properly. |
SUN PROTECTION Of
all of the various skin cancers, melanoma is known to be the most
deadly if not caught in its earliest phases. Approximately 53,000
will be diagnosed with melanoma and 7,800 will die this year from
melanoma. Melanoma = 5% of all skin caners / 71% of all skin cancer
deaths.
Skin caner kills more surfers than drownings and is the #1 cause of
death in surfers. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends SPFs of at
least 15, which block 93 percent of UVB rays. While SPFs higher than
30 block only 4 percent more UVB, they may be advisable for sun-sensitive
individuals, skin cancer patients, and people at high risk of developing
skin cancer. They also allow some margin for error if too little sunscreen
is applied.
Rash guards with a high SPF rating also helps protects against cancer.
They also help protect against rash caused by an allergic reaction
to the use of certain types of surfboard wax, minimizes sliding around
on surfboard from body oils, sunscreen or sunblock and for girls it
helps keep their tops together. |
USE A LEASH Surfboards
should be used only with a leash. Leashes are usually attached to
the board and the ankle or thigh. If the wave is keeping you under
and you are unable to discern which way is to the surface you can
follow the leash back to the surface. The surfboard will always stay
on the surface even if the surfboard is broken the remainder that
is attached to the leash will still be on the surface. A huge problem
is a loose board hurting another surfer or especially a child if you
are surfing closer to shore. The leash minimizes the distance the
surfboard gets away from you. It also saves a swim to your board especially
when you’ve been in the water for awhile are exhausted, get
a cramp and unable to swim or get hit by another board and hurt or
disoriented you can always rest on it until you regain your composure
or help arrives. One additional consideration is a breakaway leash.
A few drownings have been attributed to leashes becoming entangled
in underwater obstructions. A breakaway leash avoids this problem. |
NEVER DEPEND ON A LEASH AS
A LIFE SAVING DEVICE
If the waves are so big that you would not
feel comfortable swimming in them, then don't take a surfboard out
there with a leash with the idea that the leash is going to save
you. This is poor judgement in the extreme. A leash can break in
big surf, leaving you to swim for your board.
The orginal intent of the leash was for surfing rocky areas where
your board would get severly damaged by the rocks if you lost it,
and you may even be injured while trying to retrieve your board
from the rocks.
Now, it saves a swim in if you lose your board, and also saves those
paddling out on the inside from getting hit by lost boards. |
THE
BUDDY SYSTEM
Always surf with at least one other person. Not only will you have
more fun if you are sharing your waves but you will always have someone
to help you out if you need it. |
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KNOW YOUR
LIMITATIONS! WHEN IN DOUBT, DON'T GO OUT!
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